Repointing brick extends the life of walls, chimneys, and siding by removing old mortar and replacing it with new mortar. The process, sometimes called tuckpointing, is inexpensive compared with rebuilding a wall, and it heads off costly water damage before it starts. A typical brick chimney repointing project removes failing joints, cleans the gaps, packs in fresh mortar, and matches the joint profile to the original work. The job is DIY-friendly but labor-intensive, and it takes only basic tools and mortar. This article covers when repointing is needed, mortar selection, the step-by-step process, costs, and the points where a licensed contractor beats a weekend effort.
What Repointing Is and When It Is Needed
Repointing brick means repairing previously installed brick by removing old mortar and replacing it with new mortar. Understanding what repointing brick is and the essential techniques for restoring mortar joints matters before you pick up a raker, because the method you choose must match the age and condition of the wall.
Repointing is a repair, not a cosmetic refresh. It does not fix crumbling brick, bulging walls, or cracks that run through the units themselves, and it cannot compensate for a failing foundation. Treat those conditions as separate projects with their own inspections.
Signs That Mortar Is Failing
Repointing should happen when you see any of these conditions in the exterior brick’s mortar:
- Crumbling mortar that falls out in grains
- Holes and voids in the joints
- Cracks running along the joint lines
- Erosion deeper than 1/4 inch
- Separation between the mortar and the brick edges
Measuring Mortar Erosion
A simple field test tells you whether erosion has passed the 1/4-inch threshold. Lay a tape measure against the joint or press a flat screwdriver tip into the mortar. If the tool sinks past 1/4 inch, the joint has lost too much material and needs repointing before water finds its way in.
Why Timing Matters
Failed joints let rainwater reach the core of the wall. In freezing climates the water expands as it turns to ice and widens the cracks, and after a few seasons the brick itself begins to spall. Catching the problem at the mortar stage costs a fraction of replacing damaged brick, which is why a yearly exterior check pays off.
Repointing Methods and Mortar Selection
The technique you use depends on how much of the wall is failing. Full repointing renews every joint, spot repointing fixes isolated sections, and tuckpointing adds a thin contrasting line over the new mortar for a crisp finish. The types of repointing covered by construction reference sites usually split along those same lines, and each suits a different condition.
Pre-blended bagged mortar removes the guesswork of matching color and strength, while mixing your own from Portland cement, lime, and sand gives you control over both. For small repairs, a pre-blended Type N mix in a color close to the existing joints is the practical choice.
Matching Mortar to the Brick
The most common mistake is using mortar that is stronger than the brick. Hard, cement-rich mortar on soft historic brick traps moisture and causes spalling, so match the new mix to the original. Lime-based mortar is the right choice for pre-1900s masonry, and Type N covers most modern residential walls.
| Mortar type | Strength | Best use |
|---|---|---|
| Type N | Medium | Most residential brick walls |
| Type S | High | Load-bearing and below-grade work |
| Type O | Low | Soft brick and historic repointing |
| Lime-based | Low, flexible | Pre-1900 masonry and heritage walls |
Joint Profiles
The final pass shapes the mortar to a profile that sheds water and matches the original wall. A concave joint, pressed with a curved jointer, is the most common and the most weather-resistant. V-joints, weathered joints, flush joints, and raked joints each give a different shadow line, so check an intact section of the wall and copy it.
- Concave: curved, sheds water best
- Weathered: sloped, drains to the outside
- Flush: flat with the brick face
- Raked: recessed, strong shadow line
- V-joint: angled, decorative
Tools, Materials, and Safety Preparation
Repointing needs basic tools and a short safety list. The full set of repointing techniques, from raking depth to joint tooling order, is worth reviewing before you mix your first batch.
Buy or rent the raker and jointer as a set. The raker cuts the old mortar out, and the jointer shapes the new mortar to the profile, and the two tools are sold in matched sizes that fit standard 3/8-inch and 1/2-inch joints.
Tool List
- Wheeled joint raker for cutting out old mortar
- Masonry brush for dusting joints
- Hawk board and pointing trowel
- Hammer and wire brush
- Tape measure and large bucket
- Garden hose with a spray nozzle
- Cloth drop cloths to protect the ground
Safety Gear and Site Prep
Wear safety glasses and a dust mask when raking and brushing mortar, because the old material throws silica dust. Wear gloves when handling fresh mortar, since the hydrated lime in the mix is caustic to the skin.
- Put on safety glasses and a dust mask before raking
- Wear gloves whenever mortar touches your hands
- Cover plants, windows, and walkways with drop cloths
- Dampen the joints with a light mist before packing mortar
How to Repoint Brick Step by Step
A 100-square-foot wall takes an intermediate DIYer two to three days, working in sections. The condition of the brick mortar joints drives how deep you rake and how much fresh mortar each joint takes, so work a small area from raking to tooling before moving on.
Weather controls the work. Plan repointing for temperatures between 40 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, keep the wall out of freezing conditions for at least 48 hours after the last batch, and stop if rain is forecast before the mortar has set.
Step-by-Step Process
- Rake the failed mortar out to about 3/4 inch deep, or until you reach sound mortar
- Brush the joints with a masonry brush to remove dust and debris
- Mist the joints lightly so the brick does not pull water out of the fresh mortar
- Mix the mortar to a stiff, butter-like consistency in small batches
- Load a hawk board and push mortar into the joints with a pointing trowel
- Let the mortar set until a thumbprint barely dents it
- Tool the joints to the profile you chose
- Brush off excess mortar from the brick faces
- Mist the joints for two to three days while the mortar cures
Working in Sections
Do not rake the whole wall before mixing the first batch. Rake, brush, and repoint one section at a time so the mortar never sets before it is tooled. A second person can mix batches while the first packs joints, which keeps the pace steady.
Curing, Cleanup, and Common Mistakes
Fresh mortar needs moisture to cure properly, and the first two to three days decide whether the joints develop full strength or dry into a crumbly powder.
Curing the New Mortar
- Mist the joints two or three times a day
- Protect the wall from direct sun and driving rain
- Keep the work area damp for two to three days
- Delay painting or sealing the wall for at least a month
Mistakes That Ruin a Repointing Job
If mortar smears dry onto the brick faces, the cleanup is more work than the repair. The methods for removing hardened mortar from brick range from brushing and scraping to chemical poultices, and none of them are quick, so protect the faces while you work.
Match the tooling pass to the joint profile. A curved jointer produces a concave joint, a flat slicker produces a flush joint, and a raked joint needs a square-edged tool pressed to a consistent depth. Practicing on a scrap wall first pays off.
- Mortar mixed too strong for the brick
- Joints raked too shallow for the new mortar to bond
- Tooling too early or too late leaves weak joints
- Working a dry wall lets the brick suck out moisture
- Mixing more mortar than you can use in 30 minutes
Costs, Hiring a Professional, and Long-Term Care
The material cost for repointing is small: roughly $50 to $75 for enough mortar to repair 100 square feet of brick. Labor multiplies that several times over, so the decision to hire usually comes down to wall height, joint condition, and how comfortable you are on a ladder. Catching problems early is the whole game, because the approaches in fixing deteriorated mortar in brick masonry range from small spot repairs to full-wall repointing, and the earlier you act, the cheaper the fix.
Estimating Your Project
| Item | DIY estimate | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Mortar mix | $50 to $75 per 100 sq ft | Enough for one typical wall |
| Raker and trowel set | $40 to $90 one time | Reusable for later repairs |
| Protective gear | $15 to $40 | Glasses, mask, gloves |
| Professional labor | Several times material cost | Bid by the square foot, more for tall walls |
When to Call a Professional
Good mortar joints last for decades when the wall sheds water and the mix matched the brick. Add repointing to the annual exterior checklist: walk the walls after winter, probe the joints with a screwdriver, and fix soft spots while they are still small.
- Walls above one story or hard to reach
- Crumbling brick, not just failing mortar
- Historic buildings that need matched lime mortar
- Structural cracks wider than a joint
- Projects larger than a weekend can finish