Even as modern construction site digital technologies reshape the industry, shaping wood by hand remains deeply satisfying. Few materials reward that effort like western red cedar. This Old House recently featured four projects that showcase real cedar: a raised planter box, a garden arbor with bench, a picnic table, and an ice chest cooler. Each design capitalizes on cedar natural rot resistance, stability, and warm aesthetic. Whether you are a seasoned woodworker or a beginner, these projects enhance your outdoor space with one of the most sustainable building materials available.
Why Cedar Excels for Outdoor DIY Projects
Before picking up a saw, it helps to understand what makes cedar different from pine, fir, or pressure-treated lumber. Western red cedar contains natural extractives called thujaplicins that act as fungicides and insecticides. This built-in chemistry gives the wood exceptional resistance to rot, decay, and insect attack without chemical preservatives. The same properties make cedar ideal for outdoor furniture, planters, and structures that endure rain, snow, and sun. If you are planning a backyard makeover, learning from tiny house design and construction lessons can also inform how you approach compact, efficient outdoor builds with limited space.
Cedar also excels dimensionally. It shrinks and swells less than most softwoods, keeping joints tight and finishes lasting longer. The low density makes it easy to cut, rout, and sand, yet delivers surprising strength-to-weight ratios. Pieces are light enough to move but sturdy enough to hold soil, people, and weather loads.
- Rot resistance: Natural thujaplicins prevent fungal decay without toxic treatments
- Dimensional stability: Low shrinkage coefficient keeps joints tight through seasonal changes
- Workability: Straight grain and uniform texture make it ideal for both hand and power tools
- Sustainability: Cedar forests are managed under strict certification programs in North America
- Aesthetic warmth: Rich color palette from amber to reddish brown that weathers gracefully to silver-gray
Building a Cedar Planter Box to Enhance Curb Appeal
The first project from the This Old House lineup is a furniture-grade cedar planter box designed by general contractor Tom Silva. Unlike a standard wooden planter that sits directly on the ground, this design features four tapered legs that elevate the box, allowing air to circulate beneath and making the deck or patio underneath easy to clean. DIY wood pallet projects offer another budget-conscious entry point for planters, but a purpose-built cedar box provides superior longevity and a polished look that becomes a landscape feature rather than an afterthought.
The planter uses three cedar dimensions: 5/4×6 boards for the rails, top, and stringers; 4×4 posts for the legs and crosspieces; and 1×4 boards for the side panels. A clever detail uses two milk crates lined with fabric grow bags as planting containers. The crates sit on cleats inside the box, creating an air gap between soil and cedar walls that prevents moisture wicking and extends the planter life.
Stainless steel fasteners are non-negotiable for cedar projects. Galvanized or electroplated screws can react with cedar tannins and produce black rust stains. Pocket screws work well for face-frame joinery, while deck screws handle structural connections. A penetrating oil finish rated for decks seals the wood without forming a surface film that can peel or trap moisture.
Constructing a Garden Arbor with Bench for Relaxed Retreats
A garden arbor with a built-in bench transforms an ordinary corner of the yard into a destination. This project from This Old House Magazine combines classic carpentry details with modern construction methods. The design includes profiled rafter tails that echo traditional timber framing, alternating wide and narrow boards for the seat and backrest, and lattice side panels that support climbing vines. Using salvaged lumber as a building material can add character to a project like this, but western red cedar offers the advantage of predictable dimensions and guaranteed rot resistance for a structure meant to last outdoors for decades.
The build follows a logical three-day schedule. Day one focuses on setting post anchors in concrete and cutting the leg assemblies. The post anchors elevate the cedar legs off the ground and prevent direct soil contact, which is the primary cause of decay in outdoor structures. Day two covers installing the legs, seat frame, backrest, and lattice side panels. Day three finishes with the rafter assembly overhead.
| Day | Tasks | Materials Needed |
|---|---|---|
| Friday | Set post anchors in concrete, cut leg assemblies, layout rafter profile | 4×4 cedar posts, post anchors, concrete mix, post level |
| Saturday | Install legs, seat frame, backrest, attach lattice panels | 2×6 cedar for seat, 1×4 and 1×6 for backrest, lattice panels, stainless screws |
| Sunday | Cut rafter tails, install overhead rafter assembly, apply finish | 2×6 cedar for rafters, penetrating oil finish, safety harness for overhead work |
The trellis sides are a key functional element. Choose deciduous climbing plants such as clematis, climbing hydrangea, or wisteria. They provide summer shade while allowing winter sun through after the leaves drop. Evergreen climbers offer year-round coverage but can create a dark, damp microclimate that accelerates weathering on the wood surface.
Building a Cedar Picnic Table for Backyard Dining
The third project is a trestle-style picnic table that seats six to eight people comfortably. The design uses a classic tension-and-compression structure where the slatted tabletop and benches are supported by two trestle bases. This creates a visually light profile while maintaining the strength needed for years of cookouts and family gatherings. For anyone new to woodworking, the DIY woodworking for beginners guide covers the essential tools and joinery techniques that apply directly to a project of this scale.
The material list is straightforward:
- 2×6 cedar boards for the tabletop slats and bench seats
- 4×4 cedar for the trestle legs and cross beam
- 2×4 cedar for the apron frame and seat supports
- 1×4 cedar for the decorative cleats and bracing
A common mistake with outdoor tables is using boards with excessive moisture content. Cedar should be acclimated to the local climate for at least two weeks before cutting. Stack the boards with stickering to allow airflow, and keep them out of direct rain. When the boards reach equilibrium, the gaps between slats for drainage will stay consistent instead of opening or closing with the seasons.
The finish strategy for a picnic table differs from vertical projects. Horizontal surfaces take direct sun, rain, and food spills. A penetrating oil with UV blockers is the standard recommendation, but it needs reapplication every season. An alternative is marine-grade spar varnish on the tabletop only, which provides a harder, washable finish. Keep the underside and benches oiled to allow moisture to escape from the wood.
Crafting a Cedar Ice Chest Cooler for Outdoor Gatherings
The fourth project is a cedar-clad ice chest built around a standard 50-quart plastic cooler. The cooler insert handles the insulating work, while the cedar shell provides beauty and function. A brass spigot drains melted ice without tilting, a stainless steel continuous hinge supports the lid, and a built-in bottle opener eliminates the frantic search for an opener.
Building the ice chest shell requires precise measurements because the clearances between the cooler and the cedar box should be snug but not binding. Allow a 1/8-inch gap on each side to accommodate cedar seasonal movement. The lid is hinged at the back and should open past vertical so it stays up on its own without a prop. Consider adding a silicone gasket strip around the lid opening to keep cold air in and prevent insects from entering.
- Measure your cooler dimensions and add 1/4 inch total allowance for fit and movement
- Cut the base panel from 1×6 cedar and attach 2×2 cleats around the perimeter
- Build the four side panels with 1×4 cedar boards mounted on a 1×2 frame
- Install the brass spigot through the front panel at the lowest point of the cooler interior
- Assemble the box around the cooler, securing panels with stainless screws through the frame
- Build the lid as a shallow box that overhangs the opening by 1/4 inch on all sides
- Attach the continuous hinge, install the bottle opener, and apply finish
If this project requires modifications to your deck wiring for outdoor lighting or power near the entertainment area, hiring an electrician for home renovation projects ensures that any electrical work meets code and does not create safety hazards around water and beverages.
The brass spigot deserves special attention. Drill the hole before assembling the front panel using a step bit for a clean opening. The spigot threads through the cedar panel into a bulkhead fitting on the cooler wall. Apply silicone caulk to the exterior flange to seal against the wood. Test by filling the cooler with water before loading beverages, and check for leaks at the spigot connection.
Essential Tips for Long-Lasting Cedar Projects
Cedar is forgiving, but a few practices separate projects that last ten years from those that last thirty. First, predrill all screw holes near the ends of boards. Cedar splits more readily than oak or mahogany, especially near fastener locations. A countersink bit prevents the fastener from crushing the soft wood fibers.
Second, use joinery that accommodates movement. A breadboard end on a tabletop, slotted screw holes, and gap-free mortise and tenon joints all allow the wood to expand and contract without cracking. Cedar moves about 1/8 inch per 12 inches of width between seasons.
Third, do not neglect the ends of boards. End grain absorbs moisture at up to 20 times the rate of face grain. Seal every cut end with the same penetrating oil you use on the faces, and apply an extra coat to end-grain surfaces. On planters and the ice chest, consider sealing the interior surfaces with two coats of oil to balance moisture uptake between inside and outside.
Fourth, elevate everything off the ground. Direct soil contact is the fastest way to shorten the life of any outdoor wood project. A gap of at least one inch between the wood and soil or deck surface allows air to circulate and keeps the wood fibers dry enough to resist fungal colonization.
Finally, embrace the natural weathering process. Cedar turns silver-gray over time as UV light breaks down the surface lignin. This patina is not a sign of decay. The wood remains structurally sound under the gray layer. If you prefer the original warm color, use a UV-inhibiting finish and reapply annually. If you enjoy the weathered look, let the wood age naturally and simply wash it with a mild soap solution once a year to prevent mildew buildup.
Working with cedar connects you to a tradition of outdoor craftsmanship. Whether you build all four projects or start with a single planter box, the skills you develop will serve you across many future builds. Pairing traditional joinery with modern tools for construction projects gives you the best of both approaches: natural cedar beauty and sustainability paired with the precision of modern woodworking technology.