How To Build a Console Cabinet with Cane Webbing and Pocket-Hole Joinery

A console cabinet is one of the most versatile pieces of furniture you can add to your home. It works equally well as a media console in the living room, a storage piece in the entryway, or a stylish buffet in the dining area. Building one yourself not only allows you to customize the size and finish to match your space, but it also costs roughly half the price of comparable store-bought options. This project, originally demonstrated by DIY expert Jenn Largesse for This Old House, uses common tools and straightforward joinery techniques to produce a professional result. The design pairs clean lines with woven cane webbing for the door and drawer fronts, giving it a timeless look that suits both modern and traditional interiors. Before you source your plywood and hardware, take a moment to review frameless cabinet construction methods, which share many of the same joinery principles used in this build.

Planning Your Console Cabinet: Dimensions and Material Selection

The console cabinet described in this tutorial measures 42 inches wide, 14½ inches deep, and 30½ inches high. These proportions are deliberately versatile, making the cabinet suitable as a media stand, hallway console, or sideboard. If your space requires different dimensions, you can scale the cut list proportionally, but keep in mind that the joinery methods and hardware sizes assume a cabinet of roughly this scale.

Materials You Will Need

• One 4-foot by 8-foot sheet of 3/4-inch plywood (cabinet body, drawers, top)
• Five 8-foot-long 1-by-2 boards (legs, trim, door and drawer frames)
• One 4-foot by 8-foot sheet of 1/8-inch hardboard (back panel)
• 1/2-inch open-mesh cane webbing (18 feet wide by 4 feet long)
• Three edge-style cabinet pulls
• Two 3-inch no-mortise hinges
• Four 12-inch drawer slides
• 1 1/4-inch wood screws and pocket-hole screws
• 3/4-inch brad nails and 3/8-inch staples
• Edge-veneer tape (25 feet)
• Wood glue, tack cloth, and matte black paint-and-primer

Essential Tools for the Build

• Circular saw and miter saw
• Drill/driver and pocket-hole jig
• Pneumatic brad nailer and hand stapler
• Bar clamps and orbital sander
• Paintbrush, foam roller, and utility knife

When selecting plywood, choose cabinet-grade material such as birch or maple ply with a good-quality veneer on both faces. The 1-by-2 boards should be straight and free of large knots, since they form the legs and visible frame elements. If you are working with reclaimed or previously painted boards, you may need to spend extra time on surface preparation. For tips on handling older cabinetry components, read this guide on refinishing greasy kitchen cabinet wood, which covers cleaning and sanding techniques that apply to any painted wood surface.

Cutting and Preparing the Cabinet Components

Accurate cutting is the foundation of a square, stable cabinet. Have your home center break down the 4-by-8-foot plywood sheet into manageable pieces based on the cut list, then finish the precise cuts at home. The following table lists the key plywood components and their dimensions.

Use a miter saw to cut the 1-by-2 boards to length for the four legs (29¾ inches each), sidewall trim pieces (12 inches), front trim (39 inches), and door and drawer frame components. The door frame requires two rails at 16¼ inches and two stiles at 25 inches. Each drawer frame needs two rails at 16¼ inches and two stiles at 12½ inches. Use a circular saw to rip the top panel and supports to width, and to taper the bottom 3 inches of each leg for a refined look. After cutting, drill pocket holes at all joints using a pocket-hole jig. This joinery method creates strong, concealed connections that are ideal for cabinet construction. If you need professional help with surface preparation or refinishing older pieces, cabinet refinishing contractors can handle the prep work so you can focus on assembly.

Assembling the Cabinet Frame and Supports

Begin assembly by gluing and clamping the 1-by-2 legs to the plywood side panels. Secure them with pocket-hole screws driven from the inside of the plywood. Run a bead of wood glue along the back of the 1-by-2 sidewall trim pieces, then position them between the legs flush with the top and bottom edges. Flip the assembly over and drive brad nails through the plywood into the trim to lock everything in place.

Next, glue the 1-by-2 front trim to the front edge of the base panel so the top edges are flush. Drive pocket-hole screws through the base into the trim. Mark a line on the inside of each sidewall 1½ inches from the bottom edge. Position the base assembly below these lines and attach it using glue and pocket-hole screws driven through the side panels into the base. Fit the drawer supports between the side panels flush with the front and back edges, with the top pair set flush with the side panel top edges. Glue and screw each joint. Mark a centerline across the supports from front to back, set the center wall divider on the left side of the line, and drive wood screws through the supports and base into the divider. Choosing the right hardware for interior shelves and supports makes a difference in long-term durability, so review this guide on cabinet shelf supports types and weight ratings when planning your internal layout.

For the top, work with the panel upside down on a clean work surface. Position the assembled base on the top panel, flush with its back edge and centered along its width. Drill 1-inch-deep pilot holes through the top supports into the underside of the top panel. Drive wood screws through the supports into the top to secure it.

Building the Drawers, Door Frames, and Cane Panels

The drawer boxes are built using the same pocket-hole method. Drill pocket holes through the front and side edges of the drawer bases, the bottom and side edges of the backs, and the front edges of the drawer sides. Apply glue and assemble each drawer by driving pocket-hole screws through the back into the sides, and through the base into the sides and back.

For the door and drawer-front frames, drill two pocket holes at the end of each 1-by-2 rail. Apply glue to the rail ends, position them between the stiles, and clamp each joint. Drive pocket-hole screws into each hole to create strong, gap-free frames. The same assembly method applies to both the single door frame and the two drawer-front frames. For an in-depth look at selecting and fitting drawer hardware, see this guide on drawer slides types, selection, and installation.

Working with Cane Webbing

Cut the cane webbing to size so it overhangs each frame opening by at least 1 inch on all sides. Soak the cane panels in lukewarm water for 30 minutes before stapling. This softens the fibers and allows them to stretch during installation. As the cane dries, it shrinks and tightens for a drum-smooth finish. Center each soaked panel on the back side of its frame, then secure the edges with 3/8-inch staples using a hand stapler. Work from the center of each edge outward to prevent puckering. Once all staples are in place, trim the excess cane with scissors or a utility knife for a clean edge.

Allow the cane to dry fully before proceeding to painting and final assembly. This typically takes several hours, depending on humidity and temperature in your workspace.

Painting, Hardware Installation, and Final Assembly

Before painting, cover all exposed plywood edges with iron-on edge-veneer tape. Trim the tape flush with a utility knife after it cools. Sand all visible wood surfaces with an orbital sander using 120-grit then 220-grit paper, and wipe away the dust with a tack cloth. Apply two coats of matte black paint-and-primer using a foam roller for flat surfaces and a paintbrush for corners and detail areas. Paint the drawer fronts, door frame, back panel, and every surface you can reach on the assembled cabinet. Allow adequate drying time between coats as specified by the paint manufacturer.

For door installation, place the no-mortise hinge leaves on the edge of the door frame. Drill pilot holes and drive screws to secure the hinges. Center and install an edge-style pull on the right front edge of the door. Fit the door inside the opening, use a shim to level it, and drive screws through the remaining hinge-leaf holes into the front legs. For the drawers, screw a pull to the top edge of each drawer front. Separate the drawer slides and screw the inner halves to the sides of each drawer, centered vertically and flush with the front. Rejoin the slides, set the drawers in their openings on 3/4-inch blocks, pull them open slightly to reveal the slide mounting holes, and screw the slide outer halves to the side panels. Finally, fasten the drawer fronts to their boxes. Advanced joinery techniques like pocket-hole construction are invaluable for this stage, and you can find more detailed methods in this guide on using a pocket-hole jig for advanced cabinet making and trim work.

To finish the cabinet, position the hardboard back panel against the back edge of the top support and the back edge of the base. Slide it down to align with the center wall, mark the locations of the center wall and horizontal supports, then reposition the panel and nail it in place using a brad nailer with 3/4-inch brad nails driven into the supports, center wall, and base.

Conclusion

Building a console cabinet from scratch is a rewarding weekend project that delivers a custom furniture piece at a fraction of retail cost. The pocket-hole joinery keeps assembly straightforward, while the cane webbing adds texture and visual interest that elevates the design beyond a simple painted box. Once completed, this cabinet provides ample storage for media equipment, shoes, linens, or barware, and its 30½-inch height makes it a comfortable surface for lamps, plants, and decorative trays. If you need additional storage solutions for a smaller space, consider converting a similar cabinet design into a fold-down workstation by reviewing this guide on building a Murphy desk cabinet conversion, which combines the same cabinet-building skills with a space-saving drop-down mechanism. With careful planning, quality materials, and attention to joinery, you can create a console cabinet that will serve your home for years to come.