Sidewall Shingling: A Complete Guide to Installing Cedar Shingles on Exterior Walls

For homeowners who want a durable, attractive, and low-maintenance exterior cladding, cedar sidewall shingling remains one of the most time-tested choices in residential construction. This traditional technique, long associated with Cape Cod architecture, involves applying individually overlapped cedar shingles to the exterior walls of a house. The result is a textured, weather-resistant surface that ages beautifully to a soft silver-grey. While the process demands more skill and time than installing many modern siding materials like board and batten siding, the payoff in aesthetic appeal and longevity is unmatched. A properly installed cedar shingle wall can last 40 years or more with virtually no maintenance.

Understanding Cedar Shingles for Sidewall Applications

Cedar shingles for sidewall use differ from roofing shingles in several important ways. Sidewall shingles are typically thinner, wider, and cut with a greater taper than their roofing counterparts. They are manufactured from either white cedar or red cedar, both of which offer natural resistance to decay and insect damage.

Grades and Quality

Cedar shingles are graded according to appearance and freedom from defects. The highest grades have clear faces with no knots, while lower grades allow some tight knots and sapwood. For sidewall work, most builders choose a clear grade for visible walls to achieve a uniform appearance, though some rustic applications deliberately use lower grades for character.

Key Differences: Sidewall vs Roofing Shingles

The greater exposure of sidewall shingles means fewer courses are needed to cover a given wall area, which offsets some of the extra labor involved in individual shingle placement. A typical 16 in shingle laid at 7-1/2 in exposure covers roughly half its length with each overlapping course.

Tools, Materials, and Preparation

Sidewall shingling requires a modest set of tools, most of which are already found in a carpenter’s kit. The emphasis is on accuracy in layout and consistency in placement rather than on specialized equipment.

Essential Tools

• Hammer or shingling hatchet – A waffle-face hatchet head is less likely to glance off galvanized nail heads. Use only hot-dipped galvanized shingle nails, typically 3 in long.
• Utility knife – For trimming and squaring shingles. Safer and more precise than a hatchet blade for most cuts.
• Small handsaw – A 10-point, 20 in crosscut saw works best for cutting across the grain.
• Chalkline – Blue chalk is preferred because red chalk, if snapped too low, remains visible and unsightly.
• Tape measure – A 12 ft tape is sufficient since most measurements are short.
• Level – For setting and checking course lines.
• Chisel or shingle ripper – For fitting around windows, doors, and corners.

Nail Selection and Fastening

Only hot-dipped galvanized shingle nails should be used for sidewall work. Electro-galvanized or bright nails will rust over time, causing black streaks on the shingle face and eventual fastener failure. The standard nail length is 3 in, though 2-1/2 in nails may be used when nailing into plywood sheathing. Each shingle should be fastened with two nails placed about 3/4 in from each edge and 1 to 2 in above the butt line of the next course above it.

Power staplers are common on production jobs, but hand-nailing gives better control over fastener placement and depth. A nail driven too deep can split the shingle, while one left proud will catch debris and prevent the next course from lying flat.

Worksite Setup

Short walls can be shingled from staging planks set on sturdy sawhorses. Taller walls and gable ends require wall brackets, pump jacks, or push brackets. For reshingling work over existing siding, pump jacks are ideal because they do not require penetrating the wall for support. For new construction, wall brackets offer the best combination of simplicity and security.

Keep commonly used items within easy reach. A two-compartment nail apron holds nails, a utility knife, and a tape measure. A lightweight holster keeps the hammer accessible. The level can hang from a nail driven into the staging plank, and the saw is safely stored by sliding its blade up underneath a course of already-installed shingles.

Layout and Installation Procedures

The secret to a professional-looking shingling job is meticulous layout. The visible appearance of the finished wall depends almost entirely on the accuracy of the first few courses.

Establishing Course Lines

Course lines are the horizontal reference lines that determine where each row of shingles will sit. They are established by measuring up from the starting point at the bottom of the wall and snapping chalklines at intervals equal to the planned exposure. A typical exposure for 16 in shingles is 7-1/2 in, meaning each course covers 7-1/2 in of the wall and leaves 8-1/2 in of the shingle overlapped by the course above it.

The procedure for laying out course lines is as follows:

1. Determine the total wall height from the bottom of the starter course to the top of the wall or trim.
2. Divide the height by the chosen exposure to find the number of courses required. Adjust the exposure slightly if necessary to avoid a fractional course at the top.
3. Snap horizontal chalklines at each course interval across the entire wall.
4. Check the first course line with a level over its full length. An error at this stage compounds with every subsequent course.
5. Mark vertical reference lines at regular intervals, typically 16 in or 24 in on center, to guide the alignment of shingle edges.

Installing the Starter Course

The starter course is the most critical row. It must be perfectly level and straight because every course above it references this one. A double starter course is common practice: two layers of shingles are installed at the bottom of the wall, with the second layer offset from the first so that vertical joints do not align. This double layer provides extra thickness at the base, sheds water more effectively, and creates a shadow line that gives visual weight to the bottom of the wall.

Shingle Placement and Joint Offset

Each shingle must be spaced so that the vertical gap between adjacent shingles in the same course is approximately 1/8 in to 1/4 in. This gap allows for expansion and contraction with changes in humidity. The vertical joints between shingles in one course must be offset from the joints in the course below by at least 1-1/2 in. Following this offset pattern prevents long vertical gaps from forming, which would allow moisture to reach the sheathing.

Key rules for shingle placement:

• Never align a joint directly above another joint fewer than three courses below.
• Wider shingles should be split or sawn to maintain a consistent visual rhythm. A shingle wider than 8 in should be ripped into two narrower pieces.
• Alternate wide and narrow shingles across the wall for a balanced appearance.
• When fitting around windows and doors, cut shingles with a slight bevel so the exposed edge follows the trim line neatly.

Corners and Transitions

Corner details distinguish a careful installation from a hasty one. Two approaches are common: mitered corners, where shingles from each face meet at a 45-degree angle, and corner boards, where a vertical trim board covers the junction between two shingled faces. Mitered corners give a clean, seamless appearance but require precise cutting. Corner boards are easier to execute and provide a visual break that suits traditional Cape Cod and shingle-style homes. For more on these architectural styles, see our guide on shingle-style home design and construction.

Estimating Materials and Managing Costs

Accurate material estimation prevents both shortages and costly over-ordering. Cedar shingles are sold by the square, where one square covers 100 sq ft of wall area at a specified exposure. However, because sidewall exposure is greater than roofing exposure, the number of shingles per square varies.

Estimating by the Square

To estimate the total number of squares needed, measure the total wall area in square feet and divide by 100. Add 10% for waste, cutting, and fitting around openings. For a typical 2,000 sq ft house with 1,500 sq ft of wall area (after subtracting windows and doors), you would need approximately 16.5 squares, or about 17 squares including waste allowance.

Cost Factors

• Shingle grade – Clear heartwood grades command a premium but offer the most uniform appearance and the longest service life.
• Local availability – Red cedar is more widely available on the West Coast, while white cedar is common in the Northeast.
• Labor – Skilled shingling labor commands higher rates than standard siding installation because of the precision required.
• Fasteners – Hot-dipped galvanized nails cost more than electro-galvanized but are essential for durability.
• Underlayment – Building paper or synthetic weather-resistant barrier adds to material costs but is required for code compliance in most jurisdictions.

Maintenance and Long-Term Performance

One of the strongest arguments for cedar sidewall shingles is their minimal maintenance requirement. A well-installed cedar shingle wall requires no painting and no periodic sealing. The wood naturally weathers to an even silver-grey over several years, and this patina is both attractive and protective.

Cleaning and Stain Prevention

Over time, shaded areas of a shingle wall may develop moss or mildew growth, particularly on north-facing walls in humid climates. Gentle cleaning with a mild bleach solution and a soft brush is usually sufficient. Pressure washing is not recommended because it can damage the wood fibers and force moisture behind the shingles. For more on preventing splashback damage in siding, see our complete maintenance guide.

Replacing Damaged Shingles

Individual shingles can be replaced without disturbing the surrounding courses. The damaged shingle is split with a chisel and removed in pieces. The replacement shingle is trimmed to fit, then driven up into position and nailed through the course above it. Because cedar shingles are individually applied, localized repairs are straightforward and leave no visible patch.

Comparing Siding Options

Cedar shingles hold up well against other popular siding materials. They offer better insulation value than vinyl or aluminum siding, superior durability to fiber cement in coastal environments, and a natural aesthetic that is difficult to replicate with manufactured products. For a broader comparison, review our guide on wood siding installation standards and best practices and the differences between beveled wood siding types and installation.

In regions with high rainfall or salt spray, cedar’s natural resistance to rot gives it a clear advantage over many alternatives. Unlike painted surfaces that require periodic repainting, weathered cedar needs only an occasional wash to keep it looking its best. With proper installation and attention to detail at the corners, windows, and roof intersections, a cedar shingle wall will outperform the building that it protects for decades to come.