For decades, Norm Abram has been the trusted voice of practical craftsmanship on This Old House. His monthly column in the magazine offers straightforward solutions to the challenges that frustrate both weekend DIYers and seasoned professionals. Whether you are struggling with a miter saw that sends small molding pieces flying or trying to remove stubborn screws from a door hinge, Norm’s methods prioritize safety, precision, and clever simplicity. Norm Abrams Tricks Of The Trade Fixing Bowed Studs Cabinet Doors And More provides a deeper look at many of these essential repair strategies. In this article, we break down several of his most effective workshop techniques.
Mastering Miter Saw Cuts and Baseboard Removal
One of the most frustrating moments in any woodworking project happens when a small molding return piece goes flying across the shop the instant the saw blade touches it. Norm’s solution is elegantly simple. Fasten a strip of 3/4-inch plywood across the entire miter saw fence using washers and pan-head screws at both ends. Set the blade to zero degrees and cut completely through the backer. This leaves a kerf exactly as thick as the blade. Place your molding against the fence with the return positioned over the kerf. The backer board prevents the small piece from escaping through the gap behind the fence. Just remember to remove both pieces of the backer before making angled cuts.
The same attention to detail applies when you need to remove a section of baseboard to install a cabinet. Start by marking a perfectly plumb line using a level rather than a square, since floors are rarely level. Drive any nails in the cut zone all the way through with a nailset. Timeless Woodworking Tricks From Norm Abram Epoxy Precision And Layout covers several more layout techniques worth studying.
Here is the step-by-step approach Norm recommends:
- Screw a 14-inch scrap guide block along the plumb line on the side of the baseboard that will remain.
- Tape a thin piece of cardboard to the floor to protect it from saw damage.
- Place the blade of a fine-tooth handsaw against the scrap block and start the cut, going straight up and down.
- Once you have a kerf started, turn the blade very slightly so the cut angles behind the block. This back cut helps you achieve a tight fit with the cabinet.
- As the saw sinks into the wood, tip it forward so you do not gouge the wall.
- The kerf will not go all the way to the floor, so finish the cut with a chisel or utility knife.
- Pry off the baseboard on the waste side of the cut, remove the guide block, and fill the holes left by the fasteners.
Conquering Stubborn Screws and Hardware
How To Create A Winning Real Estate Listing Tips Tricks Best Practices emphasizes the value of knowing the right approach for different situations, and the same principle applies to hardware removal. Norm has faced every kind of stubborn fastener over his career.
For hinge screws that spin in place without backing out, first remove any screws that come out normally. Gently pry the hinge leaf outward to pull the stripped screws out slightly. Push the hinge back into place, and the screw heads will now stand proud enough to grip with a pair of pliers. Pull each one out with a firm tug. If the threads are still intact, clean off debris with a wire brush and reuse the screws.
If you plan to remount the door, you need to fill the stripped holes. Whittle small pieces of wood, add a dab of yellow carpenter’s glue into the hole, and pack it full with the wood slivers. Once the glue dries, trim away the excess. The screw threads will have solid material to bite into.
For paint-covered hinges common in older homes, safety comes first. Put on a respirator and lay down plastic sheeting to catch paint chips, especially if lead paint may be present. Clear the paint from the screw slots before attempting to back them out.
Plastic wall anchors present their own challenge. Drive a screw a turn or two into the anchor, but no deeper, or you will spread the legs and make removal harder. Grip the screwhead with pliers and pull straight out. Alternatively, drill into the anchor collar with a twist bit slightly smaller than the collar diameter. When the collar severs, push the rest of the anchor into the wall cavity with a screwdriver and spackle the hole.
Cutting Drywall Around Installed Outlet Boxes
When drywall needs to go up around outlet boxes that already have receptacles installed, Norm’s method avoids both removal and guesswork. Essential Woodworking Tricks Of The Trade Every Builder Should Master includes this type of precision layout work.
The standard sequence calls for drywall after boxes are in but before switches and receptacles. When receptacles are already installed, the usual tricks such as using lipstick to outline the box will not work. Fortunately, you can still get accurate results. Always cut the power before starting.
- Hang the top sheets first. Place a level against one side of the box, overlapping the bottom edge of the drywall. Plumb the level and mark the drywall along the box edge. Repeat for the opposite side.
- Measure from the top and bottom of the receptacle to the bottom edge of the drywall. Transfer these dimensions to the upper sheet for reference.
- Prop the bottom sheet in position against the studs and under the bottom edge of the first sheet. Measure down from the joint and mark both horizontal cut locations. Use the level again for the side cuts.
- Pull the drywall away and cut the hole with a keyhole saw. When you put the sheet back against the studs, the outlet box should slip through cleanly.
For a no-measure alternative, rub a stick of chalk on the front edge of the outlet box and push the drywall into place. When you pull the panel away, you will have a chalk outline to follow with your saw. Code requires the gap around the box to be no greater than 1/8 inch, so precision is essential.
Joining Cabinets and Concealing Fasteners
Hanging upper cabinets becomes trickier when only one stud is available to support a cabinet. Norm’s advice is straightforward: join the two cabinets before installation. Norm Abrams Essential Workshop Tricks For Diy Success offers more detail on assembly strategies.
Clamp the stiles together and drill pilot holes through one edge and at least one inch into the adjacent stile. Countersink the holes and connect the cabinets with trim-head screws. At the back of the cabinets, top and bottom, fit spacer strips matching the gap thickness. Clamp the cabinets again and drill through them at each spacer. Install a connector bolt and nut in each hole.
When mounting the joined unit to the wall, use 2-1/2 inch deck screws with washers through the back, top and bottom, into the studs. Check plumb with a level. Slip shims between the cabinet back and the wall at stud locations if needed, then screw through the shims into the studs. Get help lifting the assembled unit because it will be heavy. A temporary cleat screwed to the wall can support the bottom edge while you fasten the unit.
For hiding screwheads in oak stair treads, Norm recommends using tapered oak plugs with the grain running across the face. Here is the process:
| Step | Action | Tool |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Drill a counterbore slightly larger than the screwhead diameter | Brad-point bit |
| 2 | Drive a flat-head deck screw into the tread | Screw gun |
| 3 | Apply glue to the tapered oak plug | Small brush |
| 4 | Tap the plug into the counterbore | Hammer |
| 5 | Trim the plug flush after glue dries | Chisel or flush saw |
| 6 | Sand smooth | Sandpaper |
Ordinary drywall screws are not strong enough for this application. Stick with flat-head deck screws for a reliable hold that will not fail under foot traffic.
Salvaging Beadboard and Taming Masonry Fasteners
When removing old beadboard for reuse, patience and the right tools make all the difference. Most strips are held with finishing nails toenailed through the tongue. Corner strips are face-nailed. Pocket Door Hardware Installation Tricks Jigs And Trim Techniques For Smooth Operation follows a similar principle of careful disassembly before reassembly.
- Start with the face-nailed corner strips. Use a new 1/32-inch nailset and a hammer to drive the nails partway through without splitting the wood.
- Pry off each strip with a small flat bar. One of these strips will expose the tongue of the adjacent strip.
- On the strip with the exposed tongue, knock each nailhead partway through as before.
- Pry off the strip and repeat until all beadboard has been removed.
- If the old boards tend to split during reinstallation, drill pilot holes slightly smaller than the nail shank.
Masonry nails anchoring sleepers to a concrete slab are notoriously difficult to remove. They are made of hardened steel with spiral-fluted shafts that resist pulling. Split the sleepers with a chisel and pry off the splintered pieces to expose the nails.
Plan A: Slip a scrap of wood under the wrecking bar elbow to lift the claw under the nailhead and pull back. A small chunk of concrete may come out, but any divots can be filled with nonshrink grout.
Plan B: If the nail refuses to budge, hook the claws of a hammer or pry bar under the nailhead and bend it side to side until the shaft breaks off at or below the concrete surface. As a last resort, chip away the concrete around the nail with a small cold chisel and extract it with the wrecking bar. Always wear safety glasses when working with masonry nails.
Keeping Panels Flat and Working With Confidence
Edge-gluing boards into panels is a fundamental woodworking skill that frustrates many builders when the assembly buckles under clamps. Norm identifies two common causes: over-tightening the clamps and edges that are not perfectly square. If buckling persists after correcting both issues, alternate the clamps so that half sit on one side of the panel and half on the other. This balanced pressure keeps the panel flat. Make panels oversize and trim them down afterward. Cover the bench top with a piece of Homasote to catch glue drips and keep your work surface clean.
Throughout his years on This Old House, Norm Abram has shown that the best solutions are often the simplest. A plywood backer for the miter saw, a guide block for cutting baseboard, chalk for marking outlet holes, and alternating clamp placement for glue-ups all share a common thread: they solve real problems with minimal fuss. These techniques save time, reduce frustration, and produce better results. Header Tricks For Remodelers Smart Solutions For Concealing Structural Beams In Renovation Projects carries forward the same theme of thoughtful problem solving that defines Norm Abram’s approach to every project. By adopting these methods in your own workshop, you build not just better projects but also the confidence to tackle whatever comes next.