Adding trees and hedges to your property is one of the most rewarding landscaping investments you can make. Well placed trees provide shade, reduce energy costs, create privacy screens, and increase property value. Hedges serve as natural fences that buffer wind, define boundaries, and soften the hard lines of the built environment. Success depends on proper selection, careful planting, and ongoing care. A thoughtful approach to Landscape Design From The Ground Up Site Analysis Grading Hardscapes And Planting helps ensure that every tree and hedge you install fits into a cohesive plan that works with your soil, climate, and lifestyle. This article walks through the essential techniques for planting trees and hedges so they establish quickly and thrive for decades.
Choosing the Right Plants for Your Property
The first step toward a successful planting project is selecting healthy, well suited specimens. Whether you are planting a single shade tree or a long hedge row, the quality of the plants you bring home directly affects how well they will establish in your landscape. Knowing what to look for at the nursery saves you from bringing home stressed or diseased material.
What to Look for at the Nursery
Regardless of the type of tree or hedge you are buying, inspect the physical condition before purchasing. Look for these signs of quality:
- Strong, straight trunks with no cracks, wounds, or signs of disease
- Balanced branch structure with evenly spaced limbs
- Healthy foliage that is the appropriate color for the species
- No visible insect pests, egg masses, or fungal growth
- Root systems that are well developed but not pot bound
Understanding Different Plant Forms
Deciduous trees and hedges are typically sold in one of three forms, each with its own handling requirements. Bare-root stock is available only during the dormant season, from late fall through early spring, and consists of plants that have been dug from the field with no soil around the roots. Balled-and-burlapped specimens are dug with a root ball that is wrapped in burlap or synthetic material and are available from early fall through spring for evergreens or year-round for some species. Container grown plants are available throughout the year and offer the convenience of being ready to plant at any time. For those looking specifically at fruit-bearing varieties, resources on Planting Apple And Peach Trees provide detailed advice on getting those particular trees established successfully.
Choosing Hedges for Your Needs
When selecting hedge plants, consider the mature height and spread of the species, since many compact nursery specimens can grow over ten feet tall. Evergreen hedges provide year-round screening ideal for privacy, while deciduous hedges offer seasonal interest with flowers, autumn color, and winter form. For formal hedges, choose species that respond well to shearing. For informal hedges, select plants that maintain a neat shape naturally.
Take care when handling balled-and-burlapped material at the nursery and during transport. Always support the root ball rather than lifting the plant by the trunk. These specimens can be surprisingly heavy, so having an extra set of hands available makes the job safer for both you and the plant.
| Plant Form | Best Season to Buy | Key Inspection Points |
|---|---|---|
| Bare-root | Late fall to early spring | Fresh, moist roots without drying or breakage |
| Balled-and-burlapped | Early fall through spring | Firm, moist root ball; completely covered wrapping |
| Container grown | Year-round | No roots growing out of drainage holes; healthy top growth |
How to Properly Dig and Prepare the Planting Hole
Correct hole preparation is the single most important factor in whether a tree or hedge thrives or struggles. Many planting failures can be traced back to a hole that was too narrow, too deep, or improperly shaped. Taking the time to get this step right pays dividends for the entire life of the plant.
Digging the Perfect Hole
Start by digging a hole approximately twice the width of the root ball but slightly shallower than the root system. The extra width loosens surrounding soil so young roots can spread outward. Taper the sides of the hole slightly outward at the bottom and dig a shallow trench around the bottom perimeter to encourage roots to grow downward. Shape the remaining soil in the center into a rounded cone to serve as a firm base for the plant. Set aside the removed soil for backfill.
Soil Considerations and Amendments
In most cases, trees perform better when planted in native soil rather than heavily amended backfill. Roots that encounter a pocket of rich, loose soil may circle within it instead of venturing outward, which can lead to girdling later. An exception applies to balled-and-burlapped trees grown in heavy field soil. If your garden soil is sandy or light, add organic amendments to the backfill to bridge the textural difference.
Planting Bare-Root Trees
- Soak the roots in water for at least four hours before planting to rehydrate them
- Position the tree so the top of the root ball sits slightly above the surrounding soil grade
- Spread the roots evenly over the cone shaped soil mound, directing them outward and downward
- Hold the tree steady at the correct height while you begin filling the hole with the reserved soil
- Firm the soil gently as you fill to eliminate large air pockets
- When the hole is about three-quarters full, add water to help settle the soil around the roots
- Check that the tree has not settled too low; add more soil beneath if needed
- Finish filling to grade and water again, keeping the soil moist but not waterlogged
Planting Balled-and-Burlapped Specimens
For balled-and-burlapped plants, position the root ball about two inches above the surrounding soil to allow for settling. If the wrapping is natural burlap, untie the top and fold it halfway down the root ball. If the covering is synthetic, remove it completely, as artificial materials will not decompose. Fill the hole with soil, firming in layers. When the soil reaches about four inches from the top, moisten it and check for settling. Adjust if needed, then finish filling and water thoroughly.
Planting from Containers
Container grown plants offer the easiest planting experience, but they still require careful technique. Gently tap the sides and bottom of the container to loosen the root ball, then slide the plant out. Inspect the root mass and gently tease apart any circling roots before placing the plant on the cone shaped soil base. The top of the root ball should sit slightly above the surrounding grade. Spread the roots outward and fill the hole with soil, firming as you go. Water thoroughly after planting, aiming for moist but not soggy conditions.
When Staking Becomes Necessary for New Trees
A common misconception is that every newly planted tree must be staked. In reality, most trees establish strongest without stakes, since natural trunk movement in the wind stimulates thicker growth and stronger roots. However, specific situations call for staking during the critical first year. Contemporary perspectives in Planting Trees Sebastian Cox explore how thoughtful planting practices, including appropriate staking, contribute to long-term tree health and landscape sustainability.
When to Stake a Tree
Consider staking a tree if it displays any of the following characteristics:
- A weak or spindly trunk that cannot support the canopy upright
- A top-heavy crown that threatens to tip the root ball
- Exposure to strong prevailing winds in an open location
- Installation on a slope where soil erosion could undermine the roots
- Bare-root stock with a limited root system that needs time to anchor
How to Stake Properly
When staking is warranted, use two sturdy stakes placed on opposite sides of the root ball, driven into undisturbed soil outside the planting hole. Position the ties as low on the trunk as possible while still providing effective support, but no lower than one foot above ground level. To find the ideal tie height for a weak trunk, hold the tree upright with one hand and slide your other hand up the trunk starting at soil level. The point where the trunk remains straight without bending marks the correct tie location; attach the ties about six inches above that spot.
Use ties made from soft, wide material such as fabric tree straps or rubber belting. Loop each tie around the trunk and secure it to the stake, leaving approximately two inches of slack so the tree can move slightly in the breeze. This controlled movement encourages trunk thickening and root development. Remove both stakes and ties after the first growing season. Leaving them on beyond one year can damage the bark and restrict growth as the trunk expands.
Watering and Fertilizing for Long-Term Health
Consistent watering during the establishment period is the most critical factor in tree survival. Even drought-tolerant species need regular moisture for the first year or two while their root systems expand into the surrounding soil. A well planned watering routine, combined with appropriate fertilization, sets the stage for decades of healthy growth.
Establishing a Watering Routine
To encourage deep root growth, create a watering basin around each tree. Build a low berm of soil just outside the drip line and a second berm about six inches from the trunk. This basin captures water and directs it to the root zone. Alternative methods include soaker hoses, deep root watering probes, or drip irrigation emitters at the edge of the root ball.
Check soil moisture by inserting a finger or a garden trowel two inches into the ground near the root ball. Water when the soil feels dry at that depth. Newly planted trees typically need water every few days during warm weather and less frequently during cool or rainy periods. Once a tree is established after the first year or two, water only as needed during dry spells. An important exception occurs before an expected hard freeze: water thoroughly to help insulate the roots against cold damage.
Protecting the Trunk
Newly planted trees with thin bark are vulnerable to sunscald, frost cracks, and animal damage. If exposed to drying winds, intense sun, freezing temperatures, or wildlife, wrap the trunk with commercial tree wrap or burlap. Remove the wrapping after the first growing season.
Fertilizing New Trees
Most newly planted trees benefit from regular fertilization for the first few years. After that, fertilize only if growth appears weak or foliage is pale. Fruit trees are an exception and generally require consistent annual feeding.
Follow these guidelines when fertilizing:
- Apply fertilizer in spring and early summer when the tree is actively growing
- Avoid fertilizing within a month of the first expected autumn frost
- Spread granular fertilizer evenly around the edge of the canopy, not against the trunk
- Water thoroughly after application to carry nutrients into the root zone
- Use a balanced formulation appropriate for the tree species and your soil type
With proper attention to selection, planting technique, and ongoing care, your trees and hedges will establish strong root systems and provide shade, privacy, and beauty for generations.