Brick walls turn up in lofts, around fireplaces, and on accent walls, and they give framed art a strong backdrop. Hanging anything on them feels harder than on drywall because a standard nail will not hold. With the right hardware the job is straightforward, and some methods do not require a drill at all. Before you start, review smart picture hanging techniques to plan placement, spacing, and gallery layouts that suit the room.
The safe choice depends on frame weight, wall condition, and whether you are allowed to drill. Adhesive hooks carry lightweight frames, hardwall hangers take medium loads up to about 30 pounds, and masonry anchors support heavy frames. Each method leaves the brick intact when installed correctly, and each can be removed later if you change the layout.
Gather the tools first: a pencil, a tape measure, a level, a hammer, and a drill with a masonry bit cover every method in this article. Adhesive hardware needs only rubbing alcohol and a dry cloth. Keeping everything in one tray cuts the trips across the room and lets you finish a single frame in under an hour.
Choose the Right Mounting Method for the Frame
Start with three numbers: the frame weight, the frame width, and the height where the center of the art should sit. Weight decides the hardware class, width decides how many hanging points you need, and height decides where the marks go. If the frame itself is still undecided, browse creative picture frame alternatives for wall art and photo displays before you commit to a hanging plan.
Answer the same set of questions for every wall:
- Can you drill into the brick or mortar permanently?
- Will the picture stay up for months or come down after an event?
- What is the exact weight of the framed piece?
- How wide is the frame, and does it need two hanging points?
- What budget do you have for hardware?
The mortar joint versus brick face decision matters for the drilled methods. Mortar is softer and patches easily with a small trowel, which is why most installers aim for the joint on medium frames. The brick face offers a stronger bite for heavy anchors, but a crack in a brick is permanent. When the frame is heavy enough to need a sleeve anchor, the brick face is the correct target; for plugs and screws under 40 pounds, the joint is the easier repair.
Match hardware to frame weight
Use the frame weight as the primary filter. The table below shows the typical load range for each method and whether a drill is required.
| Hardware | Typical load range | Drill required | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Adhesive hooks and mounting tape | 1 to 10 lb | No | Light frames, rentals |
| Hardwall hangers | 10 to 30 lb | No | Medium frames on mortar joints |
| Plastic wall plugs with screws | 15 to 40 lb | Yes, small pilot hole | Frames anchored in mortar |
| Masonry sleeve anchors | 40 to 100+ lb | Yes | Heavy mirrors and large art |
Underestimating weight causes most failures
A hook rated for 5 pounds will not hold an 8-pound frame once the wire pulls at an angle. Weigh the framed piece on a bathroom scale, add 10 percent as a safety margin, and pick hardware rated above that number. When two methods overlap in range, choose the one that needs no drilling first and keep the drill option in reserve.
Adhesive Hooks and Mounting Tape for No-Drill Hanging
For lightweight frames under about 10 pounds, adhesive hardware avoids drilling altogether. Foam-backed tape and adhesive hooks stick to clean brick and come off with little residue. Renters prefer this route because the wall returns to its original state. Home improvement sites such as Bob Vila explain how to hang picture frames on a brick wall and which products survive real load testing.
Install an adhesive hook in four steps
- Clean the brick with a dry cloth, then wipe the spot with rubbing alcohol and let it dry.
- Mark the exact position with a pencil on the mortar joint or brick face.
- Peel the backing, press the hook firmly for 30 seconds, and hold it in place.
- Wait 24 hours before hanging anything so the adhesive reaches full bond strength.
Surface prep decides the outcome
Brick is dusty and slightly textured, so a quick wipe is not enough. Alcohol removes dust, oils, and loose particles that weaken the bond. Cold rooms slow curing; keep the space above 50 F for the first day. Mounting tape strips carry roughly 5 to 10 pounds per strip depending on the product, and two strips spaced apart keep wide frames level. Removal is just as simple: slide dental floss or a thin scraper behind the hook, press down slowly, and lift the remaining adhesive film with rubbing alcohol.
Hardwall Hangers for Medium Frames
Hardwall hangers, sometimes called brick hooks, are hardened pins that tap into a mortar joint and hold 25 to 30 pounds. They work without drilling and leave only a small mark in the joint, which is easy to patch later. The pin grips the mortar rather than the brick, so the brick face stays intact. When you compare picture hanger types, hardwall hangers sit between adhesive tape and masonry anchors on both price and holding power.
Install a hardwall hanger
- Mark the height on a mortar joint, about 1 inch from the brick edge.
- Hold the hanger against the joint and tap the pin with a hammer until it seats firmly.
- Level the hanger and tap the second pin if the model uses two.
- Hang the frame and confirm it sits level on the hooks.
Mortar joints versus the brick face
Mortar is softer than brick, so the pins seat easily and the joint repairs with a small dab of mortar. Hammering pins into the brick face risks cracking the brick, which cannot be patched invisibly. Keep hardwall hangers on the rated load; pushing a 30-pound hanger toward 40 pounds risks the pin pulling out of softened mortar. Two hangers spaced to the frame width keep wide frames stable and stop them swinging when doors close; frames with a sawtooth hanger need a single centered pin, while D-rings and wire can use two pins set at the same height.
Masonry Anchors and Screws for Heavy Frames
Frames over 30 pounds need drilled anchors. A hammer drill with a carbide masonry bit makes a clean pilot hole, and the anchor type depends on the base material. Mortar joints accept plastic wall plugs, while brick and concrete take sleeve or wedge anchors. To match the anchor to the wall material, check how to choose the right picture hanger for any wall, including bit sizes and pull-out values.
Anchor types compared
| Anchor type | Typical rating | Base material | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plastic wall plug | 15 to 40 lb | Mortar | Lowest cost, pairs with a wood screw |
| Sleeve anchor | 50 to 100 lb | Brick, concrete | Expands against the hole wall |
| Wedge anchor | 100 to 300 lb | Solid brick, concrete | For the heaviest pieces |
| Toggle bolt | 30 to 60 lb | Hollow block | Wings open behind the wall |
Drill size and depth
Use the bit size printed on the anchor package. Drill the pilot hole about 1/4 inch deeper than the anchor length so dust does not stop the anchor from seating. Blow the dust out of the hole before inserting the anchor. Wear safety goggles and a dust mask; masonry dust contains silica, and brick fragments fly when the bit bites. A hammer drill set to rotation plus impact clears the hole faster than rotation alone, but soft mortar can oversize under impact; switch to rotation-only if the bit walks. Tap a center punch mark before drilling so the bit does not skate across the glazed brick face.
Anchor installation steps
- Mark the hole location on a mortar joint or the brick face.
- Drill with a hammer drill and the correct masonry bit.
- Blow out the dust and tap the anchor into the hole.
- Drive the screw until the frame hanger sits snug.
- Hang the frame and re-check it with a level.
Level the Frame and Finish the Job
The last step is positioning. Wire-backed frames need the hook placed above the wire ends so the picture hangs at the planned height. The guide on hanging a picture with wire covers gauge selection, D-ring placement, and the leveling tricks that keep a frame from tilting forward.
Two-point hanging keeps wide frames straight
A frame wider than 24 inches should hang from two hooks. Mark both points on the same level line, then adjust one hook up or down by small turns of the screw. A laser level or a long spirit level makes the line easy to strike across the brick.
Set the right height
Gallery practice puts the center of the art 57 to 60 inches from the floor. Over a sofa, hang the frame so its bottom edge sits 8 to 10 inches above the backrest. Mark the wall, then convert the mark to the hook position using the drop from the hanging wire or D-rings. Adjust the wire so the frame tilts back about 2 degrees against the wall; the tilt keeps the bottom edge from standing proud of the brick.
Whatever method you chose, finish by checking the frame with a level and tugging gently on the bottom corners. These two checks are the core of how to hang pictures securely and straight on any wall, and they take less than a minute each.