Every table saw creates a block of dead space underneath the table, and most workshops fill it with clutter or leave it empty. Purpose-built tool cabinets change that by adding drawers, a pegboard panel, and a work surface right where the saw is used. Factory options now ship in two common widths, roughly 18 and 32 inches, with a drawer layout designed around blades, inserts, and accessories. Before choosing between a factory cabinet and a plywood build, it helps to understand the dimensions, the drawer plan, and the costs involved. A saw with a bigger table and better fence creates even more usable space underneath, which matters when you measure for a cabinet.
Why under-saw storage works
Storage directly under the saw keeps blades, wrenches, push sticks, and inserts within arm’s reach of the operator, which is a real safety gain. Reaching across a spinning blade for a push stick is exactly the behavior a cabinet eliminates, and compact table saw safety guidance consistently recommends keeping accessories off the table surface and close at hand.
The layout also recovers floor space. A 25-inch-deep cabinet under the saw replaces a rolling cart that would otherwise sit against a wall, and the top of the cabinet doubles as a staging surface for material or parts. The top surface also gives a place to set the miter gauge between cuts, which keeps it from landing on the saw table or the floor. Drawers with liners keep tools from sliding and clattering, and a foam insert can hold each tool in its own pocket so nothing rolls into the blade path.
Weight is part of the equation too. A loaded cabinet adds mass under the saw, which lowers the center of gravity and makes the whole assembly more stable during cuts. Casters turn that mass into a mobile station, and locking wheels keep it planted while the saw runs.
What factory tool cabinets offer
Factory cabinets bring engineered fit, matched finish, and components that are hard to source individually at the same quality. The current generation ships in two sizes: a narrow model about 18 inches wide and a wide model about 32 inches wide, both around 25 inches deep and 31.5 inches tall. Each cabinet carries four drawers plus one vertical drawer fitted with a pegboard panel, soft-close ball bearing slides, and a plastic top rated as a work surface.
Mobility is built in. Four swivel casters let the cabinet roll out for cleaning and access, and installation amounts to mounting the casters. The accessories list includes a foam block insert for customized tool storage, three drawer liners, and six pegboard hooks in small and medium sizes.
| Specification | Narrow model | Wide model |
|---|---|---|
| Cabinet width | 18 in | 32 in |
| Depth | 25.25 in | 25.25 in |
| Height | 31.5 in | 31.5 in |
| Drawers | 4 plus 1 pegboard | 4 plus 1 pegboard |
| List price | $499 | $699 |
Fit caveats matter more than the spec sheet. The wide cabinet will not fit under a saw fitted with a floating dust collection attachment or a right-side router table, and the narrow cabinet will not fit under a 36-inch fence model with the same attachments. Measure the clearance under your saw before ordering, because the difference between fits and does not fit is often an inch or two of hardware. Understanding why buyers choose a premium table saw in the first place makes the storage decision easier, because the cabinet has to match the saw’s footprint and safety features.
Drawer layouts and internal organization
The drawer plan decides how much the cabinet actually stores. Shallow drawers fit blades, wrenches, and bits; deeper drawers take the miter gauge, the push blocks, and the occasional power tool. The vertical drawer with a pegboard panel handles the long items that defeat shallow drawers: wrenches, screwdrivers, and levels hang on the hooks and stay visible.
Internal organization comes from three sources: foam inserts that pocket each tool, drawer liners that stop sliding, and pegboard hooks that hold hanging tools. Foam is the most flexible option because it can be cut to fit anything from a single blade to a router, and it protects both the tool and the drawer.
Foam inserts and drawer liners
Foam inserts come as pre-cut sheets or pick-and-pluck grids you pull apart into custom pockets. Cut-to-fit foam gives exact pockets but takes time; pick-and-pluck is fast and works well for square-edged tools. Liners add grip and quiet, and they protect the drawer bottom from scratches.
Pick and pluck versus cut-to-fit
Pick-and-pluck foam handles rectangular tools quickly, but round or oddly shaped tools leave gaps that waste space. Cut-to-fit foam with a knife and a marking pen makes tighter pockets, and a second layer underneath can add depth for taller tools.
Compare the cabinet plan against the modular storage options already in your shop. Stackable boxes, tool cabinets, and bins each fit a different workflow, and an under-saw cabinet earns its place when it holds the items you currently dig out of a tote every time you cut.
Casters, leveling, and floor conditions
Four swivel casters make a loaded cabinet easy to move, but they also introduce a leveling problem. Concrete floors in shops and garages are rarely flat, and a cabinet that rocks under a saw table transfers vibration into the cut. Locking casters hold position while the saw runs, and adjustable feet or shims fix the rest.
Locking casters versus plain swivels
Plain swivel casters roll in every direction and make the cabinet easy to position, but they do nothing to stop drift during a cut. Locking casters add a brake on one or both wheels, and a cabinet that carries a saw should have locks on at least two casters. Locking all four keeps the assembly rigid but makes repositioning slightly slower.
Reading a caster load rating
Check the load rating before loading the cabinet. A 32-inch cabinet filled with blades, wrenches, and a miter gauge can weigh 150 pounds or more, so casters rated for 75 pounds each are a different proposition from casters rated for 40. Add the saw weight to the total if the saw sits on top of the cabinet rather than beside it.
The same leveling discipline applies to the saw itself. An uneven saw base makes the table twist and the fence read wrong, and the fixes range from shimming the feet to leveling sagging cabinets when the floor itself is the problem.
DIY versus factory: what the cost comparison shows
Building your own cabinet from plywood costs less in dollars and more in time. A basic build needs one sheet of 3/4-inch plywood, five drawer slides, four casters, foam, liners, and hardware. At typical retail prices the materials total about $250, roughly half the price of the factory narrow cabinet, and a builder with a table saw can finish the box in a weekend.
| Item | Quantity | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|
| 3/4-inch plywood sheet | 1 | $70 |
| Ball bearing drawer slides | 5 | $75 |
| Swivel casters with locks | 4 | $40 |
| Foam insert material | 1 | $30 |
| Drawer liners | 3 | $15 |
| Screws, glue, finish | – | $20 |
| Total | – | $250 |
The factory price buys engineering. Soft-close slides, matched holes, a finished top, and a warranty are the premium, and the wide cabinet at $699 buys roughly twice the storage of the narrow model at $499, which makes the wider size the better value per drawer for shops that have the clearance.
Time is the real currency. A weekend build at $250 beats a $499 cabinet only if your hours are free, and the quality of the result depends on cutting accuracy and slide alignment. Portable table saws get moved, loaded, and dropped, so the cabinet that rides with them needs casters, a tough top, and hardware that stays tight; that is where the factory build justifies itself. For a stationary shop saw, a DIY build can match or exceed the factory result.
Planning storage that grows with your shop
Before buying or building, measure twice. Record the clearance under the saw, the floor area, the door widths the cabinet must pass through, and the tool list you actually own. A cabinet that fits the saw but blocks the outfeed table is a net loss.
- Clearance under the saw table, including any dust collection or router attachments.
- Floor area and the swing path of the cabinet doors and drawers.
- Door and aisle widths between the delivery point and the saw’s location.
- Weight capacity of the casters versus the loaded cabinet plus saw.
- Current tool inventory, sorted by what needs drawer space versus wall space.
Factory cabinets are not the only route. Rolling carts, wall pegboard, and repurposed furniture all store tools, and one of the proven low-cost paths is to turn used file cabinets into a sturdy workshop tool cabinet, which adds lockable steel storage for a fraction of the factory price.
Whatever route you choose, the test is the same. After a month of use, every drawer should have a purpose, and the saw table should stay clear of loose tools. If a drawer stays empty after a month, move the item out and use the space for something you actually reach for. Storage that works is storage you stop thinking about, and that is the goal whether the cabinet cost $250 in plywood or $699 from a factory.