Full-size routers were one of the last corded tools to go cordless, and for good reason. Routing pulls a lot of power, and early batteries could not sustain the motor speeds that large bits need. That changed as battery systems matured. A 7-1/4-inch brushless cordless circular saw proved that high-draw tools can run on modern packs, and the same battery technology now powers routers that match corded performance on many cuts. The new wave of full-size cordless routers gives woodworkers a real choice between the extension cord and the battery.
Makita’s RP001G, announced in April 2024, joins a category that Metabo HPT opened in 2021 with its MultiVolt system and that Milwaukee expanded in 2023 with the M18 cordless router. Each approach differs in power, collets, and accessories. This article compares what full-size cordless routers offer, how to match one to your existing battery platform, and where a corded router still makes sense.
Full-Size vs Compact Routers: What the Size Buys You
The gap between a trim router and a full-size router is not just handle length. Full-size routers carry bigger motors, take larger collets, and plunge deeper. A trim router trims laminate and edges; a full-size router cuts joinery, raises panels, and shapes profiles. The RP001G plunges 60mm, roughly 2.36 inches, enough for deep cuts in thick stock. If you work with 1-by and 2-by material, the extra plunge depth opens up work that a compact router cannot do.
Motor Class and Power Output
Cordless full-size routers run on high-voltage packs, typically 36V or 40V class, because a 12V or 18V trim router motor cannot sustain the load of a 1/2-inch bit in hardwood. Corded full-size routers commonly rate at 2.25 horsepower or more. The cordless equivalents trade a little peak power for the freedom of no cord, and brushless motors narrow the gap. For most edge work and joinery, the difference is hard to notice.
Fixed Base or Plunge Base
Plunge bases let you start a cut in the middle of a board, which matters for mortises and stopped cuts. Fixed bases are simpler and more rigid for edge work. The RP001G ships with an integrated plunge base rather than a swappable motor, while some competitors sell the motor and let you buy separate bases. Consider which base style matches your most common cuts before you choose a system. In a router table for woodworking, a fixed base with above-table height adjustment is easier to use than a plunge base.
Speed Control and Collet Systems
Router speed matters more than most new buyers expect. Large bits generate heat at high RPM, and running a 2-inch panel-raising bit at 25,000 RPM can burn the wood and dull the steel. The RP001G offers five speed settings from 8,000 to 25,000 RPM, and a variable-speed dial on a corded router works the same way. Match the speed to the bit diameter and the material, and both cut quality and bit life improve.
Matching Speed to Bit Size
The rule of thumb is simple: the larger the bit, the slower the spin. Small bits need high speed to cut cleanly, and large bits need low speed to stay cool. The table below shows a typical starting point. Adjust for material hardness: hardwoods call for the lower end of each range.
| Bit diameter | Suggested speed range | Common uses |
|---|---|---|
| 1/4 inch | 18,000-25,000 RPM | Trim, laminate, small roundovers |
| 1/2 inch | 14,000-18,000 RPM | Edge profiles, dovetails, joinery |
| 3/4 inch and larger | 8,000-12,000 RPM | Raised panels, large profiles, deep mortises |
Start at the middle of the range and listen. A smooth, steady tone means the bit is cutting; a whine or a chatter means the speed is wrong.
Collets, Sleeves, and Bit Compatibility
The collet determines which bits fit. The RP001G launches internationally with a 12mm collet and 6mm and 8mm sleeves, which covers the metric shanks common in Europe. North American woodworkers expect 1/2-inch and 1/4-inch collets, and buyers should confirm which collets ship with the local model. The same consideration applies to trim routers: a cordless trim router kit from any brand typically includes a 1/4-inch collet, and some add a 3/8-inch option. Bits with the wrong shank size need an adapter sleeve, and running a loose bit is dangerous.
Battery Platforms: Matching the Router to Your System
A router is rarely the first tool you buy. Most woodworkers already own a drill and a saw, and the battery platform they chose for those tools usually decides which router they can buy. The RP001G runs on Makita XGT batteries, the 40V Max platform, and the product images show it paired with a 2.5Ah pack rated as the equivalent of an 18V 5Ah battery. That equivalence matters: a 40V 2.5Ah pack stores roughly the same energy as an 18V 5Ah pack, because watt-hours are the product of voltage and amp-hours.
Voltage Classes and What They Deliver
Each manufacturer segments its lineup differently. Compact and full-size cordless power tool platforms serve different construction needs, and knowing the difference keeps you from buying the wrong tier. 18V systems cover most drilling, driving, and cutting work. 36V and 40V systems add power for miter saws, routers, and demolition tools. The trade-off is weight and cost: high-voltage packs are heavier and pricier, and a full-size router is one of the tools that justifies the premium.
Runtime Planning
Estimate runtime from the pack’s watt-hours and the tool’s draw. A 2.5Ah 40V pack stores 100 watt-hours. A router drawing 800 watts under load runs roughly seven minutes of continuous cutting on that pack, and real-world use with pauses and light passes stretches that further.
- Light edge work and trimming: one 2.5Ah pack can last most of a day.
- Heavy joinery and deep cuts: plan two packs and a lunchtime charge.
- Table-mounted routing: use the largest pack you own, since weight does not matter.
Dust Collection, Plunge Depth, and Job Site Readiness
Cordless routers leave the shop, so they need to handle dust and weather. The RP001G is AWS-compatible, meaning it can trigger dust collection automatically when paired with a compatible vacuum and a Bluetooth chip. Automatic dust collection activation keeps the work surface clean without reaching for the vacuum switch, and the same system works across other AWS-compatible tools. Cordless full-size plunge routers in this class typically pair with a shop vac hose adapter, and a good shroud makes a measurable difference in air quality.
What IPX4 Water Resistance Means
The RP001G is rated IPX4, which means it resists splashing water from any direction. That is not a license to route in the rain; the rating covers splashes and wet conditions, not immersion. For job site work, IPX4 protects against a sudden shower or a knocked-over water bottle. Check the rating before buying if you work outdoors regularly.
Setting Up Dust Collection
Hook the hose to the dust port, set the vacuum to auto mode if it supports it, and check the seal at the base. A gap in the shroud lets fine dust escape, and fine dust stays in the air longest. Use a HEPA-rated vacuum for finishing work, especially in occupied spaces.
Planning Battery Spending Across Tools
Battery systems reward planning. A single platform that powers your router, your circular saw, and your drill lets you carry one charger and swap packs between tools. Brushless cordless circular saws with high-output batteries deliver the sustained power that framing and sheet cutting demand, and the same packs that feed a 7-1/4-inch saw will run a router in shorter bursts. If you already own high-output packs, a bare-tool router purchase is cheaper than buying into a second system.
Sharing Batteries Between Tools
Count the tools in your platform before adding the router. Every shared pack raises the utilization of your battery investment. If your crew runs multiple tools off the same packs, add capacity. If the router is an occasional tool, one spare pack is usually enough.
Capacity vs. Weight Trade-Offs
The RP001G weighs 3.9kg, about 8.6 pounds, with the 2.5Ah battery installed. Larger packs add runtime and weight, and a heavy router is tiring in overhead work. Keep a light pack for handheld routing and a big pack for table-mounted or repetitive work where the weight rests on the table.
Corded or Cordless: Making the Call
Corded routers still hold advantages: unlimited runtime, lower cost, and no battery weight. The 1613EVS plunge router shows what decades of refinement look like, with smooth plunge action, reliable depth stops, and no batteries to charge. Its price-to-performance ratio is hard to beat when an outlet is nearby. Cordless routers win where the work moves: on site, in tight spaces, and at the top of a ladder.
When a Cord Still Wins
Fixed installations, router tables, and long production runs favor corded power. A table-mounted router never moves, so the cord is not a limitation, and the motor can run at full speed all day. Dust collection is easier to wire permanently, and a corded router costs less than the cordless equivalent plus two batteries.
Hybrid Setups
Many shops keep both: a cordless router for site work and a corded router in the table. The two tools serve different jobs, and the overlap is small enough that owning both rarely feels wasteful. Start with the one that matches your most frequent work, then add the second when a job demands it.
Full-size cordless routers have reached the point where the choice is about workflow, not capability. Match the collet to your bits, the speed to the material, and the platform to the rest of your kit, and the router will earn its place in the van.